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 Tales
Of The Wing
- Oil Filters for the Wing
1500
Using STP SMO-17 oil filter for the Honda
GL1500 seems to work fine.
Also the FRAM PH6017A oil filter works fine
also.
Timing Belts for Goldwing 1100, 1200,
1500,
Gates # Honda OEM #
Year
T275 14401MN50040
88-00 GL1500
T070 14400MG90000
84-87 GL1200
T274 144006790040
80-83 GL1100
GL 1500 fuel pumps and Honda Accord fuel pumps.
Sometimes, but not too often, we can find parts for the Gold Wing
that are interchangeable with the the Honda cars. When my friends Gold Wing
(88) broke down its fuel pump he asked me to help him.
We took his bike apart and and the fuel pump looked pretty much like the one
on the Honda Accord. I decided to try it and see if it worked, which it did,
plus that it saved him over $200.00.
What you need is a fuel pump for a Honda Accord LXI, part number
17708-SEO-S05. You'll probably have to pay around $100.00 - $118.00 for
it, depending on where you buy it.
To change it do the following:
Disconnect the battery.
Take of the saddle and siphon out at least 2,5 - 3 gallons of fuel from your
tank if it is full. You need to bring the fuel level down to half a tank or
lower. Remove all connections including the fuel line attached to the lid (not the gas cap). when that is done you can go ahead and remove the screws
as well as the return fuel line attached in the front under the lid. After
that you can lift out the pump including brackets.
Remove all connections to the pump as well as the fuel line attached to the
lid and than remove the fuel pump.
Remove the new pump from its brackets and mount in the Gold Wing fuel pump
brackets. Make a little hole in the rubber bushing for the pin on the bracket. Adjust (turn) the pump so the intake is at the lowest point.
Buy a new fuel line approximately 2" longer than the original with an inside
diameter of 8 mm (metric 0.8 cm). You also need to get 2 stainless steel hose
clamps. Measure up the hose to proper length and mount it.
I never put the return fuel line back and it does not seem to create any
problems. The bike have over 2,000 miles with the new pump.
Put the electrical connections back (same colors as the old pump). Put the
"whole package" pack in the tank and connect the electrical and the fuel line. Put the seat
back on and re-connect the battery. Crank it up and drive away. You are done.
This will most likely not take you more than an hour from start to finish. No
special tools are required - you can use the bikes tool kit. No difference
have been noticed in the fuel mileage nor is their any difference in throttle
response. It also manage to remove about 6.25 gallons of fuel so you don't
lose any distance.
The best part is that Honda charge (list price) $322.49 for a fuel pump to
the GL 1500. The one for the Accord is just around $100.00. The only difference between the two pumps is the sender for the fuel light. Normally
that doesn't brake so you don't have to change it.
I hope this will save somebody a "buck".
Stefan
"CB
TUNING MADE EASY "
Instructions
for tuning a CB antenna with a
Standing
Wave
Bridge
. SWR Measurement copied from
original instruction sheet.
Turn
the transmitter off. Disconnect the antenna coaxial cable at the
transmitter output.
Connect
the "TRANSM" connector to transmitter output, and
"ANT" to antenna connector. A short cable equipped with male
connectors on both ends will be required between the transmitter and the
meter. (*Note: adapters will have to be bought or fabricated to tune Honda
radio antennas.)
Set
the center switch to "FWD" and rotate the adjusting knob to near
minimum position (counter-clockwise).
Turn
the transmitter on, rotate the adjusting knob for full meter swing.
Next,
set the switch to "REF". Read the meter scale. The indication
will give the SWR reading directly.
A
perfect matching, viz., 1:1 ratio, in ideal from the theoretical point of
view. Adjustments on the transmitter and antenna system should be made so
that the SWR is as low as possible. An SWR of 1.5:1 is considered
satisfactory, taking into account the line losses and slight mismatching.
(*note - readings are always taken with the transmit lever -PTT switch-
depressed.)
Additional
checks and tips. Before tuning:
Clean
and check all grounds. The ground plate in the trunk of the GL1500 must be
cleaned and bolts tightened. A sure way to get a good ground to the m/c
main frame is to run a wire from an antenna mounting bolt to the m/c frame
under the seat. I have seen several GL1500s with a significant resistance
between the trunk framework and the main frame.
Check
antenna for continuity. Two checks, from the tip of the antenna to the end
of the cable center plug, and from the base of the antenna mount to the
outside portion of the cable end.
Check
for infinite resistance between the antenna element and the base. If there
is continuity, don't try to transmit. Possible cause may be a crushed
antenna cable causing an electrical short.
Check
cable (coax connections) clean, tight, with no moisture.
Vehicle
should be outside and at least 5 meters from any buildings or large
objects such as trees.
SWR
meter hooked up to CB end of coax using short connecting cables.
Do
not touch the antenna while transmitting.
Do
not let anyone stand close to the antenna. It won't make them sterile but
it will screw up your SWR reading.
Objective
is to obtain an SWR of less than 2 to 1 (2.0:1) on all channels from 01 to
40. If you experience a high SWR on all channels, you are probably
experiencing a ground plane deficiency. RE-CHECK your GROUNDS.
If
the SWR on channel 40 is greater than that on channel 01, the antenna is
considered to be 'long' and reduction of physical length is necessary. On
m/c antennas with a center loading coil, adjustment is made after
loosening the top allan screws. If it is required to cut the antenna, the
amount that you cut off should be in increments of no longer than 1/8th of
an inch. Remember, cutting is your last resort after all possible trouble
areas have been eliminated.
If
the SWR on channel 01 is greater than that on channel 40, your antenna is
considered to be 'short'.
Follow
the instructions for your SWR. You probably will have to 'recalibrate' the
meter each time you make a major change in frequency (channel change) or
adjustment in antenna length.
Coax
for 50 ohm systems employing a single CB antenna should be RG-58A/U. Dual
or co-phased systems require a 75 ohm cable, RG-59A/U. Cables supplied
with CB antennas should not be cut or shortened as they are a
predetermined length. Do not tightly coil excess cable as this will effect
your SWR.
Use
Radio Shack adaptor 278-117
BNC Plug-Motorola Socket
Use
Radio Shack adaptor 278-121
BNC to PL259 adaptor
Use
Radio Shack adaptor 278-208
PL259 to Motorola
278-968
RG58/U Cable Assembly
"BRUSH
UP ON YOUR ALTERNATORS"
While
I had most of my 1500 torn apart getting ready for Wing Ding, I decided to
check the brushes in the alternator. Boy was I glad I did!! The Wing had
67k on it and the brushes were at the service limits. Honda uses the holes
for two reasons that I know about, but there may be more. The first is
they are the service limit wear indicators. Reach the holes, change the
brushes! (Works
for me!) The second reason is a mechanical one. When you reassembly
everything, you need a means of 'keeping' the brushes back up in the
holders out of the way of the armature. So you push the brushes back into
the holders, run a paper clip into the hole in each brush and WHAA-LA! Now
you can put everything back together without fighting the brushes. Once
the alternator halves are back together, pull out the paper clips and you
are off and running. Some folks might want you to perform some sort of
procedure to seat the brushes, but I didn't. One other thing, make a mark
(scratch) across the two halves of the alternator casings to aid in lining
up the halves on reassembly. It took me about 45 minutes from start to
finish, and that is allowing time to heat up the soldering iron too!
-
Buck Huddle -
- If you have any bike stories to share,
please send them to the Webmaster and we will add them to Bike
Tales.
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